As I sat in the subtly lit surrounding of Yindees in
Kilkenny with my fiancĂ© I remembered that scene. The sunbathed faces of Thailand’s
people looked down from the walls through canvas pictures; smiling women
in cone hats working in fields, or in tiny boats selling fresh produce; boy monks
in orange robes collecting alms, and wonderful portraits of the Buddha. The
decor is inviting, tasteful and effectively represents the cuisine its guests
have come to eat.
I ordered the crispy potato and pumpkin cake for starters. A
small rocket salad sat on the side, with a drizzling of sweet dressing. The
best word I can come up with to describe the feeling it invited in me was
comforted. It was crisp, fluffy and sweet all in one bite. My other half
ordered the lamb martabak - slow cooked lamb potatoes and spices in pastry,
with mint and yogurt dressing. Not one for words, he just pointed downwards
with his fork a few times, and made a noise that sounded a lot like “Um, mm, mmmmmm.”
I sipped a perfectly decadent
Cosmopolitan cocktail as I waited for my next course. He ordered a Kiwi beer,
called James Boag's, which he hadn’t necked since his days in Australia.
The atmosphere was conducive to relaxed fun. The staff was top class, and
checked in on us regularly, topping up our water and ensuring we were happy.
Large numbers of guests sat around us, visibly enjoying the vibe too. The place
was almost to capacity, which was impressive for a wet night in January.
I had wok-fried tofu and vegetable noodles for my main. I
used the wedge of lime at the top of the dish to dress it in fresh juice. The
first taste turned me into my partner. Lost for words, I simply sounded out my
joy. As a vegetarian, it really is hard to get a good dish at a restaurant, but
this was simply not the case at Yindees. The tofu was crisp, and well chopped
into small cubes, as opposed to the massive chunks usually served up at other oriental restaurants. The
flavours were a complex but perfectly suited medley of fire and spice. I finished the entire serving, which let me
tell you was not meagre. My partner had
already made headway through his curry before I even pretended to care about how
he was enjoying it.
Dessert - lychee panna cotta - brought me back to my time in Hanoi, where I
used to buy large bags of lychees from women in cone hats and eat them at my
desk at Vietnam News. Fresh, sweet and hydrating, it is such an exotic fruit, and
one that is guaranteed to trigger an endorphin release. My happy fiancé, not
usually one for high praise, doted on his mango and passion fruit cheesecake. His
was the better choice (as usual) but the panna cotta wasn’t to be dismissed
either. Admittedly, though, it is probably more suited to those who like a
rich, gooey texture after their dinner.
We’ll be going back.